How to apply lipstick correctly
Good lipstick is mostly about preparation and a few small habits. Exfoliate and moisturise your lips first, line them with a pencil close to your lipstick shade, apply the colour with a brush from the centre outwards, blot with a tissue, then add a second coat. Close your lips around a finger and pull it out to keep colour off your teeth.
Those steps come from the “10 commandments of lipstick” written by the beauty journalist Anne Fritz for StyleUnited in 2012, with design by Papercut.fr [1]. They still hold up, and this guide goes through each one with the reasons behind it, plus advice on lip care from dermatologists.
Prepare your lips first
Lipstick clings to dry flakes and settles into cracks, so the finish is only as smooth as the lips underneath. StyleUnited’s first rule is to start with a clean lip, gently rubbing off dry skin with a damp washcloth [1]. Don’t scrub hard; lips are thin-skinned and easily irritated.
The American Academy of Dermatology’s advice for dry or chapped lips is to apply a non-irritating lip balm several times a day and before bed, use a thick ointment such as white petroleum jelly if they are cracked, drink plenty of water and stop licking your lips, because saliva dries them out further as it evaporates [2]. Use a balm with SPF 30 or more when you are outside, since sunburned lips can trigger cold sores [2]. Let the balm sink in for a few minutes, or blot off the excess, before you apply colour, or the lipstick will slide.
Choose the right lipstick formula
Different formulas suit different jobs [1]:
- Matte lasts longest and gives the most colour, but can dry your lips out. It shows any flaking, so prep matters most here.
- Cream or satin formulas are more hydrating and comfortable but wear off sooner, so you will need to reapply.
- Long-wear and liquid lipsticks sit between the two. They have become much more comfortable than the early versions [1]. Long-lasting lipstick goes back to the late 1940s, when the chemist Hazel Bishop created her “No-Smear” lipstick [3].
- Sheers, balms and glosses give a wash of colour and shine with very little effort, but need topping up often.
StyleUnited’s advice is to experiment [1]. A matte for a long day out and a cream for every day is a common combination.
Line, apply, blot: making lipstick last
Use a lip liner
Lining your lips does two things. It stops colour bleeding into fine lines around the mouth, and it neutralises the natural pinkness of your lips, so the lipstick looks more opaque and closer to the colour in the tube [1]. Pick a liner that matches your lipstick or your natural lip colour. For a longer-lasting base, fill in the whole lip with the pencil before applying lipstick on top.
Apply with a brush
Applying lipstick with a brush takes longer than swiping it straight from the bullet, but it gives a more precise edge and works the colour into the lips so it lasts longer [1]. It is worth the extra minute for a bold shade, an important day or a night out. Start at the centre of each lip and work outwards, then define the edges.
Blot the right way
After the first coat, gently press a tissue to your closed lips to lift the excess, then apply a second coat [1]. Don’t put the tissue between your lips and press them together, because that pulls colour off unevenly [1]. Two thin coats with a blot in between last much longer than one thick layer.
How to stop lipstick getting on your teeth
Lipstick on your teeth usually comes from colour on the inside edge of your lips. The fix is simple: put your index finger in your mouth, close your lips around it and pull it out [1]. The finger takes the colour from the inner rim, where it would otherwise rub on your teeth. It is especially useful for bold reds and for photos.
Finishing touches: highlighter and gloss
A dab of highlighter or a creamy concealer on your cupid’s bow, the dip in the middle of your upper lip, catches the light and makes the lip line look sharper [1]. Gloss on top of lipstick makes lips look fuller. If you don’t like the sticky feeling, a small drop in the middle of the bottom lip gives a similar effect [1].
How to choose a lipstick shade for your skin tone
StyleUnited’s two rules on shade are a good starting point [1]:
- Nude lipstick: the most flattering nude is one shade deeper than your skin tone. Fair skin suits a nude with a hint of pink, and olive or dark skin suits sandier beige tones. A nude that is too pale can wash you out.
- Red lipstick: there is a red for everyone. As a rule of thumb, fair skin looks best with a blue-red, olive skin with an orange-red and dark skin with a deep burgundy red.
Undertone matters as much as depth. If the veins on your wrist look blue and silver jewellery suits you, you probably have a cool undertone and blue-based reds and pinks will suit you. If they look green and gold suits you, try orange or brick-based shades. These are guidelines, not rules; the best test is to try a shade on your lips in daylight, not on the back of your hand.
Is lipstick safe?
For most people, yes. Some lipsticks contain trace amounts of lead, which occurs naturally in mineral ingredients and is not added on purpose [3]. In the US the FDA has set limits for lead in the colour additives used in lipstick, and in the UK and EU cosmetics must be safe under cosmetics regulations. If a lipstick burns, stings or tingles, stop using it: the AAD says that is irritation, not a sign the product is working, and recommends fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products for sensitive lips [2].
Questions about lipstick rules
What is the right way to apply lipstick?
Exfoliate and moisturise, line your lips, apply with a brush from the centre outwards, blot with a tissue, apply a second coat, then run a finger through closed lips to keep colour off your teeth [1].
How do I make my lipstick last all day?
Choose a matte or long-wear formula, fill in your whole lip with liner first, apply with a brush and build up two thin coats with a blot in between [1].
Who can pull off red lipstick?
Anyone. The trick is matching the red to your skin: blue-reds for fair skin, orange-reds for olive skin and burgundy for dark skin is the usual rule of thumb [1].
Should lip liner be darker than lipstick?
Usually it should match your lipstick or your natural lip colour. A slightly darker liner can make lips look fuller, but a strong contrast tends to look dated.
Can I put lipstick on chapped lips?
It is better to heal them first. Apply a non-irritating balm or petroleum jelly several times a day; most people see an improvement in two to three weeks [2]. If you do wear colour, choose a creamy formula rather than matte.
Sources
- StyleUnited, The 10 Commandments of Lipstick, by Anne Fritz, 2012 (archived copy), the original article for this infographic. Also shared by Bridal Musings.
- American Academy of Dermatology, 7 dermatologists’ tips for healing dry, chapped lips.
- Wikipedia, Lipstick.
Last reviewed 2 November 2026
